Pattern Corrections

Even though my patterns undergo vigorous testing, I find that there are occasional corrections and clarifications needed after a pattern is printed/downloaded. Before you begin making a pattern, check here first to make sure all of your information is up to date. Corrections are listed below, in order of newest to oldest. (If you can't find a pattern listed below, that means there are no corrections.)

Regarding my books--you can find Charm School Corrections here and Jelly Filled Corrections here. Happy quilting!


#191 Starstruck 2

NOTE: When adding the border in Step #14, it instructs to measure the width of the quilt top in multiple places, calculate the average, and trim your pieced border strips to match. That average width should be approx. 68.5" wide (not 72.5" wide as stated in the pattern).

#189 Kiss & Makeup Hanging Travel Bag

-TIP for Steps #14 and #15: Keep in mind you are adding pleats to only ONE of the 14" sides of the pocket pouch rectangle (and lining rectangle) in Step #14. The other 14" side of each is what you will be bringing RST with the 14" base of the vinyl in Step #15. Don't let the addition of the pleats in Step #14 throw you off in locating the 14" side, it's there, I promise! ;)

#185 Double Dutch

-For a scrappier look, you can replace the 3 1/4 yards of background fabric with 28 fat eighths or 14 quarter-yards. This is just to clarify that if using 14 quarter-yards, you can use quarter-yards (cut 9" x 44") OR fat quarters (cut 18" x 22"). There's no difference since you can fold either to 9" x 22" and follow the fat eighth cutting diagram. (The pattern incorrectly states to fold to 18" x 22"--and that's a typo--you'll fold to 9" x 22".)

Finished block is 9¼" x 9¼" (not 10" x 10"). This won't affect assembly but will slightly reduce the finished quilt size to 65¼’’ x 74½’’. The main thing is to note that a completed block in Step #8 will measure 9¾” x 9¾’ unfinished (not 10½" x 10½").


The original cutting instructions, while technically correct (i.e. you can piece a whole quilt), yield different block proportions than the ones on the cover quilt. Please check your copy against the cutting info below and update yours, if applicable. (If you'd like an updated copy of the PDF or printed booklet, let me know and I will be happy to replace it.) These changes were added December 2019 and I immediately updated my inventory, as well as what distributors (and the stores I knew of) had. Here are the proper cutting directions:


1. To (28) fat eighths (9” x 22”): Cut the following from each:
· (4) A rectangles 3’’ x 7½’’
· (4) B rectangles 2½’’ x 3’’
· (2) C squares 2½’’ x 2½’’

If using (14) fat quarters, fold each fat quarter in half to 9” x 22” and
follow the cutting diagram above to double up on A, B, and C units.

2. From the background fabric, cut the following:
· (10) strips 7½’’ x WOF. Subcut 3’’ x 7½’’ D rectangles, (12) per strip
until you have (112).
· (7) strips 3’’ x WOF. Subcut 2½’’ x 3’’ E rectangles, (16) per strip
until you have (112).
· (4) strips 2½’’ x WOF. Subcut 2½’’ x 2½’’ F squares, (16) per strip until
you have (56).

*For a scrappy background, cut (28) fat eighths identically to Step #1.
(If using (14) quarter-yard cuts or fat quarters, keep your cuts folded to
9’’ x 22’’ to get double.) No matter what you use, you will need the
following total:
· (112) D rectangles 3’’ x 7½’’
· (112) E rectangles 2½’’ x 3’’
· (56) F squares 2½’’ x 2½’’



*The following note is applicable only to printed booklets--and is only a slight tweak to cutting the green fabric in order to accommodate unidirectional prints.

In the "Cutting" section, the scrappy version Step #2 should say:

"From each ½ yard of green fabric, carefully cut the following:

· (2) strips 8½’’ x WOF. Subcut (8) 5¾’’ x 8½’’ rectangles (4 per strip).

· From the excess, cut (4) 2’’ x 8½’’ rectangles."


Just a little typo in Step #1 of the Cutting on page 2 for the 84" x 84" version. You'll trim (33) 5" x 5" charm squares to (33) 4.5" x 4.5" squares. Not (336), that would be a holy miracle!


-For Step #14, the unfinished size of the unit should measure 2½'' x 2½''. (The inital version published said 4½'' x 4½''. This error was corrected within hours of the PDF pattern being released and only affects original batch of printed copies.)


-Step #14 should say "Trim 4 background strips 3'' x 80'' to match the measurement." (NOT 4'' x 80'')



As of 3/6/17: The pattern was revised with a small tweak in cutting in order to make it easier to get all required pieces per fat quarter. (Some fat quarters aren't always 22'' wide, so this offers a little more leeway.) 

The most current version will list:

-A Finished Block size of 16'' x 16½''.

-A Finished Quilt size of 64'' x 66''. 

-Instructions to cut a 7½'' x 17½'' rectangle under the first bullet of Step #1 in the Cutting section.

If your copy differs, let me know and I'll email you a current copy.


*NOTE: This correction only applies to PDF copies purchased on the day of release in 2016. It is unlikely this note applies to you, but you can check to make sure your copy says the following:

-Under "Cutting" for the white fabric, the third bullet point should simply say to cut (12) strips 2½'' x WOF--NO SUBCUTTING NEEDED. (Don't subcut them into 2½'' x 4½'' rectangles.)

- - > In the event you have subcut the white 2½'' x 4½'' rectangles, no problem! Just follow suit to subcut each background border strip print into (6) rectangles 2½'' x 4½'' as well. Sewing the rectangles into their rows to match the diagram, alternating print and white. 

-Under "Cutting" for the pink sashing fabric, the last bullet point should say to trim to 4½'' x 72½''.

C'EST LA VIE (from Fat Quarter Shop's Sew Sampler Box November 2016).

-On page 3, the instructions for making half-square triangles should say to sew 1/4'' away from the marked line on both sides, then cut along the marked line and press open the HSTs. (Don't sew directly on the marked line.)


-GENERAL PIECING NOTE: Keep in mind that the diagrams show a "finished block," meaning your unfinished block may look slightly different, i.e. the points will be 1/4" in from the edge. (A "finished block" is what the block will look like once it is sewn into the quilt top with 1/4" seam allowance.)


-The initial release of the PDF calls for too many 5" white squares. You will need (96) white squares 5'' x 5''

-In Step 9, under "White Fabric" you need (6) squares 5'' x 5'' per block, not (9).


*This clarification only applies to original copies printed (or PDFs purchased) before May 2019--the ones with a yellow gingham background on the pattern cover:

In Step 4 of "Block Assembly," please note that the white rectangle 6'' x 6½'' should be oriented so the 6½'' sides run along the top/bottom. Since it's near square (and not labeled), it could be hard to tell just looking at it.


*NOTE: This correction only applies to original printing from 2015--the one with Gooseberry fabric on the cover, including an all-navy solid version in the bottom-right corner.

Step 7 should say: "Sew the “B” unit to the left of the “O” unit and press. Attach the “C” unit on top; press. Repeat to add the “L” unit to left (press), the “M” unit on top (press), the “D” unit to the left (press), and the “E” unit to the top (press)." 

The diagram is correct.


-Step 1 should say to cut (2) rectangles 4'' x 10''.


-Under the "Materials Needed" section, add 1 2/3 yards of scallop trim fabric for the roof